Tianjin Tofu Pudding (老豆腐 laodoufu)

Nearly ten years ago I fell in love with laodoufu, the breakfast of choice for millions of Tianjin people. Last week, I shared how to make the custard from scratch. Today, we’re focusing on the gravy.

Dear Soycerers,

Did you have a chance to try last week’s tofu pudding recipe? If so, let me know how it went.

This week we’re making the gravy for Tianjin laodoufu. Laodoufu is 90% similar to doufunao – supremely savory, anchored with dried daylily and just the right ratios of soy sauce, cooking wine, and water. But it rarely uses meat or eggs. It’s also brightened with star anise.

If you’re lucky enough to live near the San Gabriel Valley, Fortune No.1 makes one of best versions outside of China. If not, give it a go at home. It’s not too hard.

Tianjin-style laodoufu

老豆腐卤子 - laodoufu gravy

Ingredients:

• Dried daylily – 20 flowers (sold at Chinese markets and on Amazon)

• Dried wood ear fungus – ¼ cup

• Dried shiitake – 2

• Vegetable oil – 2 tbsp

• Ginger – 1 small slice (3g)

• Scallions – 2 

• Light soy sauce (not low-sodium) – 1 tbsp

• Shaoxing cooking wine – 1 tsp

• Water – 2 cups

• Dark soy sauce – ½ tsp

• Salt – ¼ tsp

• MSG – ¼ tsp

• Chinese chicken powder (vegan) – ¼ tsp

• Star anise powder – ½ tsp

• Potato starch – ~1½ tbsp, mixed in equal parts water to form a slurry

Optional toppings:

• Chinese roasted sesame paste (diluted 1:3 with water)

• Cilantro (briefly scalded in the hot gravy, then plated)

• Chili oil

• Garlic chive flower sauce (sold at Chinese markets)

Method:

1. Soak the daylily, fungus, and shiitake in water until fully hydrated, 1-3 hours. Drain and rinse away any dirt. Trim the tough end of the daylily, then cut in half. Slice the fungus into thin ribbons. Remove the shiitake stem, smash lightly with the back of your knife to flatten, then slice into strips.

2. In a small saucepan over low heat, add the oil, ginger, and scallions and sweat until fragrant, 1 minute. Swirl in the light soy sauce and cooking wine, then immediately follow with the water, dark soy sauce, daylily, fungus, and shiitake. Simmer for 5 minutes. Add in the salt, MSG, Chinese chicken powder, and star anise powder. Bring to a boil and swirl in the starch slurry, stirring until full-bodied but not gelatinous.

3. To serve, ladle a few pieces of fresh tofu pudding into a personal serving bowl, top to cover with gravy, and garnish with any toppings. Serve immediately.

The finished gravy should have a red tinge and be full-bodied but not gelatinous.

Tips:

• Your oil shouldn’t be too hot, or it will scorch and add off flavors to the gravy. The light soy sauce and cooking wine should bubble as they hit the pan but not burn.

• You might be tempted to use the shiitake soaking water in the sauce. I’d recommend against it. It’s not usually done in Tianjin laodoufu because the flavor is too potent.

• Chinese chicken powder is seasoned MSG. It’s ubiquitous in Chinese cooking. Most brands sold in the US are vegan. Buddhists often substitute mushroom powder, though the flavor is very different and often overwhelms non-mushroom dishes. 

• Before adding starch, the gravy will taste over salted. Don’t worry – the starch will dilute the flavor, as will the tofu.

• If your tofu is firm, make your gravy thinner. If your tofu is soft, make your gravy thicker.

• Dark soy sauce provides color. We’re aiming for a red-tinged brown.

• Homemade gravy tends to have more daylily, fungus, and shiitake than restaurants. That’s cause a bowl in China sells for 50 cents. I prefer adding a bit more for flavor and crunch.

Think you’ll give it a go? Let me know if I can help out.